Base Screw Removal - Pre-1950 (Antique) - Antique Fan Collectors Association

Not logged in - Login | Register: (First and Last Name Only)

AFCA Forums > Antique Fan Collectors Association > Pre-1950 (Antique) > Base Screw Removal

Base Screw Removal

Moderated by: Steve Cunningham, Rod Rogers, Larry Hancock

New Topic

Author

Post

Adam Rohn
AFCA Member

Joined:	Fri Oct 2nd, 2009
Location:	Duluth
Posts:	351
Favorite Fan:	GE AOU
Status:	Offline

Posted: Sun Oct 4th, 2009 10:09 pm

Quote

Can anyone please tell me how to remove the screw on the base that seperates the base from the motor on a 1912 westinghouse desk fan? Btw, I got a bench buffer today and it works wonderfully, no more buffing by hand!

Steve Sherwood
AFCA Member

Joined:	Mon Nov 14th, 2005
Location:	Peculiar, Missouri USA
Posts:	1626
Favorite Fan:	eskimo,eskimo, eskimo
Status:	Offline

Posted: Sun Oct 4th, 2009 10:10 pm

Quote

Try some penetrating oil, if that does not work you can heat it with a torch, but that could damage the paint.

Steve Sherwood

Adam Rohn
AFCA Member

Joined:	Fri Oct 2nd, 2009
Location:	Duluth
Posts:	351
Favorite Fan:	GE AOU
Status:	Offline

Posted: Sun Oct 4th, 2009 10:20 pm

Quote

Steve,

I've used WD40 and that hasn't worked and I don't own a torch. Any other suggestions? Would the heat from a soldering iron work? It gets to 1250 degrees, I believe. Also, there's a little slot screw on the oposite side of the bigger thumb screw, do I have to remove that as well?

Steve Sherwood
AFCA Member

Joined:	Mon Nov 14th, 2005
Location:	Peculiar, Missouri USA
Posts:	1626
Favorite Fan:	eskimo,eskimo, eskimo
Status:	Offline

Posted: Sun Oct 4th, 2009 10:31 pm

Quote

Both will have to be removed to take the trunnion out. A soldering iron will not work. If you have been soaking the screw and it will still not come out it will need to be heated to remove it. You can buy a small propane torch kit at any hardware store.

Steve Sherwood

Adam Rohn
AFCA Member

Joined:	Fri Oct 2nd, 2009
Location:	Duluth
Posts:	351
Favorite Fan:	GE AOU
Status:	Offline

Posted: Sun Oct 4th, 2009 11:13 pm

Quote

Steve,

How do I clean my buffing wheels on my benchtop buffer? I've not had one before

Steve Sherwood
AFCA Member

Joined:	Mon Nov 14th, 2005
Location:	Peculiar, Missouri USA
Posts:	1626
Favorite Fan:	eskimo,eskimo, eskimo
Status:	Offline

Posted: Mon Oct 5th, 2009 12:44 am

Quote

Get a wire brush and while the buffer is running push it into the buff. This will clean it.

Steve Sherwood

Adam Rohn
AFCA Member

Joined:	Fri Oct 2nd, 2009
Location:	Duluth
Posts:	351
Favorite Fan:	GE AOU
Status:	Offline

Posted: Mon Oct 5th, 2009 12:49 am

Quote

Thanks Steve

Adam Rohn
AFCA Member

Joined:	Fri Oct 2nd, 2009
Location:	Duluth
Posts:	351
Favorite Fan:	GE AOU
Status:	Offline

Posted: Wed Oct 7th, 2009 10:49 pm

Quote

Steve,

I bought a torch today, I just need to buy butane to use it. (local gas station was out) Is there anything I can do to avoid too much damage to the paint? The paint on the screw is no big deal, I just don't want to damage the base too badly if it can be helped. Also, what way should it turn to losen it? I know the old phrase "righty tighty, lefty loosely" isn't always true

Nicholas Denney
AFCA Member

Joined:	Thu Aug 2nd, 2007
Location:	Morgantown, Pennsylvania USA
Posts:	2578
Favorite Fan:	Emerson Trojan 54648
Status:	Offline

Posted: Wed Oct 7th, 2009 11:11 pm

Quote

Adam Rohn wrote: Also, what way should it turn to losen it? I know the old phrase "righty tighty, lefty loosely" isn't always true

They never used left-handed parts on "common" areas of the fan, just in more discreet areas like inside the motor or base. (though none are in your Westy)

I would've recommended taking a pair of vise grips to the nut with something wrapped around it to protect it and tapping the end of the handle with a hammer. Solid shocks are always more effective than "soft" pressure when it comes to loosening things. :up:

Last edited on Wed Oct 7th, 2009 11:12 pm by Nicholas Denney

Steve Sherwood
AFCA Member

Joined:	Mon Nov 14th, 2005
Location:	Peculiar, Missouri USA
Posts:	1626
Favorite Fan:	eskimo,eskimo, eskimo
Status:	Offline

Posted: Wed Oct 7th, 2009 11:12 pm

Quote

The screw should be a right hand screw. You might damage the paint, because you have to heat it up till it turns red. This will most likely burn the paint off. I recommend you use the torch outside if you do not have a workshop or shed to do this in.

Steve

Last edited on Wed Oct 7th, 2009 11:17 pm by Steve Sherwood

Adam Rohn
AFCA Member

Joined:	Fri Oct 2nd, 2009
Location:	Duluth
Posts:	351
Favorite Fan:	GE AOU
Status:	Offline

Posted: Wed Oct 7th, 2009 11:16 pm

Quote

Do I need to worry about breaking the screw off or is cast iron pretty tough? I know if I break the screw off with a portion still in the base I'm in deep trouble

Adam Rohn
AFCA Member

Joined:	Fri Oct 2nd, 2009
Location:	Duluth
Posts:	351
Favorite Fan:	GE AOU
Status:	Offline

Posted: Wed Oct 7th, 2009 11:18 pm

Quote

Also, by left handed I'm assuming you mean I turn it counterclockwise to loosen it?

Steve Sherwood
AFCA Member

Joined:	Mon Nov 14th, 2005
Location:	Peculiar, Missouri USA
Posts:	1626
Favorite Fan:	eskimo,eskimo, eskimo
Status:	Offline

Posted: Wed Oct 7th, 2009 11:20 pm

Quote

Anything can happen.The screw could break. It could be cross threaded in for all I know. You will find out. The picture I saw of your fan it is stamped steel not cast iron, they are not the same.

Steve Sherwood

Last edited on Wed Oct 7th, 2009 11:23 pm by Steve Sherwood

Nicholas Denney
AFCA Member

Joined:	Thu Aug 2nd, 2007
Location:	Morgantown, Pennsylvania USA
Posts:	2578
Favorite Fan:	Emerson Trojan 54648
Status:	Offline

Posted: Wed Oct 7th, 2009 11:22 pm

Quote

Adam Rohn wrote: Do I need to worry about breaking the screw off or is cast iron pretty tough? I know if I break the screw off with a portion still in the base I'm in deep trouble
Pot metal I wouldn't touch, but cast iron will be fine. The wingnut only has internal threads because it's.... a nut. There's no danger of getting "stuck" even if you do manage to somehow break off the wings on the nut.

Adam Rohn
AFCA Member

Joined:	Fri Oct 2nd, 2009
Location:	Duluth
Posts:	351
Favorite Fan:	GE AOU
Status:	Offline

Posted: Wed Oct 7th, 2009 11:23 pm

Quote

Your really helpful! hehe Thanks Steve. :)

Nicholas Denney
AFCA Member

Joined:	Thu Aug 2nd, 2007
Location:	Morgantown, Pennsylvania USA
Posts:	2578
Favorite Fan:	Emerson Trojan 54648
Status:	Offline

Posted: Wed Oct 7th, 2009 11:25 pm

Quote

Adam Rohn wrote: Also, by left handed I'm assuming you mean I turn it counterclockwise to loosen it?

STANDARD threads are right-handed and "lefty loosey - righty tighty"

LEFT HANDED threaded screws UNSCREW CLOCKWISE

Adam Rohn
AFCA Member

Joined:	Fri Oct 2nd, 2009
Location:	Duluth
Posts:	351
Favorite Fan:	GE AOU
Status:	Offline

Posted: Wed Oct 7th, 2009 11:27 pm

Quote

Thanks Nick, I'll try that right now. I'll reply with the outcome :)

Steve Stephens
AFCA Member

Joined:	Mon Nov 14th, 2005
Location:	San Anselmo, California USA
Posts:	3598
Favorite Fan:	Peerless bipolar
Status:	Offline

Posted: Thu Oct 8th, 2009 01:53 am

Quote

Nicholas Denney wrote:
Adam Rohn wrote: Also, by left handed I'm assuming you mean I turn it counterclockwise to loosen it?

STANDARD threads are right-handed and "lefty loosey - righty tighty"

LEFT HANDED threaded screws UNSCREW CLOCKWISE

Adam, you want to loosen the wing nut counterclockwise. I just undid mine to confirm. I don't see anything that would bind up the wingnut unless the threads have been crossed or well rusted.

Once you get the wingnut off you may not be home free. You still have to free up the neck joint and remove the bolt that the wingnut screws on to. If the neck (riveted to the bottom of the motor) is pot metal it may have swollen up enough that you won't be able to remove the bolt. On my early stamped steel Westy the neck joint piece is cast iron but not sure about all of the later models.

Last edited on Thu Oct 8th, 2009 01:55 am by Steve Stephens

Adam Rohn
AFCA Member

Joined:	Fri Oct 2nd, 2009
Location:	Duluth
Posts:	351
Favorite Fan:	GE AOU
Status:	Offline

Posted: Thu Oct 8th, 2009 02:38 am

Quote

I tried it both ways with the advice Nick gave me and it wouldn't budge, I even took that small screw out on the other side thinking that was the problem but no such luck! :(

Dick Evins
AFCA Member

Joined:	Mon Nov 14th, 2005
Location:	USA
Posts:	282
Favorite Fan:	Emerson
Status:	Offline

Posted: Thu Oct 8th, 2009 10:28 pm

Quote

On the tightest base plate screws I couldn't get to break loose, I used an impact screw driver and surprisingly, after a couple of whacks with a nicely weighted hammer, they just began to move in the correct direction and come right out.

I keep a firm grip on the impact driver when I strike it and also ensure that the screw driver tip doesn't move around in the slot and stays firmly in place.

I hope this helps.

Last edited on Thu Oct 8th, 2009 10:30 pm by Dick Evins

Ralph Bliss
AFCA Member

Joined:	Mon May 11th, 2009
Location:	West Springfield, Massachusetts USA
Posts:	586
Favorite Fan:	My First, Fort Wayne 16"
Status:	Offline

Posted: Thu Oct 8th, 2009 11:24 pm

Quote

An impact driver is your best bet if you want to save the paint.

Adam Rohn
AFCA Member

Joined:	Fri Oct 2nd, 2009
Location:	Duluth
Posts:	351
Favorite Fan:	GE AOU
Status:	Offline

Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 03:10 am

Quote

Nick,

When looking at the front of the fan should this screw turn towards me or away to loosen it? I'm still having a heck of a time losening it, I've tried heating it to over 1,000 degrees with my heat gun but that didn't help. Kinda acts like its held on by something but I don't know what and I took out the small screw on the opposite side of the wing nut

Steve Stephens
AFCA Member

Joined:	Mon Nov 14th, 2005
Location:	San Anselmo, California USA
Posts:	3598
Favorite Fan:	Peerless bipolar
Status:	Offline

Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 03:39 am

Quote

The wing screw turns CCW to loosen as you look at the outside of the nut. Same as virtually every nut and screw you'll encounter. If it won't come undone somebody may have epoxyed it in place or it's cross threaded or has locktite on it or???? That's a "thumb nut" and should come undone with your hands. Of course it won't and I don't know what the actual problem might be.

Adam Rohn
AFCA Member

Joined:	Fri Oct 2nd, 2009
Location:	Duluth
Posts:	351
Favorite Fan:	GE AOU
Status:	Offline

Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 04:15 am

Quote

I got it off Steve

It was really on there but with a few strong blows from my hammer it finally gave up the fight! I needed to get rid of the base, I was having trouble keeping the motor housing on my vice to remove the stator with the base and motor housing attached. Thanks for the help though!

Current time is 07:08 pm