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AFCA Forums > Antique Fan Collectors Association > Pre-1950 (Antique) > Cage Buffing

Cage Buffing
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Adam Rohn
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 Posted: Mon Oct 5th, 2009 09:36 pm
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Can I safely machine buff my westinghouse fan cage without destroying it or do you recommend sticking with hand polishing?

 

 
Steve Sherwood
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 Posted: Mon Oct 5th, 2009 10:44 pm
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You are posting in the wrong forum., but answer your question, NO. I would not attempt it at all, never, no way. One wrong slip any you can kiss that cage good bye. It will severely damage it. You said you just bought the buffer. I would be careful just buffing the blades, because you can easily catch the edge of a blade at the wrong angle and the blade will try and kick out of your hands. Make sure you have a good pair of gloves on and hold the blades tight in your hands. They will get very hot while buffing.

Steve Sherwood
Doug Wendel
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 Posted: Mon Oct 5th, 2009 10:50 pm
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I will usually use the machine buffer on the outside edges of the wires but do the insides by hand.  If you're careful and plan your positions correctly you can get a lot with the buffer.
Adam Rohn
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 Posted: Mon Oct 5th, 2009 11:57 pm
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yeah, I noticed that about the blade. I'm using a old blade to practice on and I've been holding on too two "wings" but I think I may try holding it from the back of the hub and see if that makes a difference in control. I DO plan on buying a good pair of gloves for buffing when I go out and buy that torch. Which forum should I post in? I apologize if I've been posting in the wrong one.
Ron Powell
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 Posted: Tue Oct 6th, 2009 01:21 am
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Adam, I don't know what size or width your wheels are so be VERY careful doing the cage. If it grabs it from you sorry to say, it's all over. I use 3/4" wide wheels and have been told there still to wide for doing a cage safely.

Nicholas Denney
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 Posted: Tue Oct 6th, 2009 01:57 am
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   The trick with buffing is to always hold the material so that the wheel spins up to the edge of the material and not at it, which will cause whatever you're buffing to get ripped out of your hand because the fibers on the wheel will catch the material. Buffers don't need a lot of speed... just a moderate amount of torque. 1,500 RPMs are far too many and so are 1,000. 400-600 is nice, though.

    Using a low speed buffer can stem the potential for accidents because you have plenty of time to react when it does catch and "kick" and the kick will be much less powerful than at higher speeds.

    Your initial question really depends on what your buffer can do and how attentive you're willing to be in the process. :up: 

Last edited on Tue Oct 6th, 2009 01:58 am by Nicholas Denney
Ron Powell
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 Posted: Tue Oct 6th, 2009 02:24 am
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Nicholas Denney wrote:    The trick with buffing is to always hold the material so that the wheel spins up to the edge of the material and not at it, which will cause whatever you're buffing to get ripped out of your hand because the fibers on the wheel will catch the material. Buffers don't need a lot of speed... just a moderate amount of torque. 1,500 RPMs are far too many and so are 1,000. 400-600 is nice, though.

    Using a low speed buffer can stem the potential for accidents because you have plenty of time to react when it does catch and "kick" and the kick will be much less powerful than at higher speeds.

    Your initial question really depends on what your buffer can do and how attentive you're willing to be in the process. :up: 
Nick, I'm really unsure what you mean by "up to the edge". I hope you don't mean having the rotating of the buffer  turning counter clockwise against your work.
And I reckon a 600 rpm buffer is just fine if you have 2" diameter wheels or you don't mind buffing for hours.
When I use to work for a plating shop as a buffer, our wheels where about 12" in diameter and they ran at 3400-3600 rpms.
Adam Rohn
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 Posted: Tue Oct 6th, 2009 03:00 am
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so hold the material at a angle when buffing? What part of the wheel should I be using?
Nicholas Denney
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 Posted: Tue Oct 6th, 2009 03:06 am
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Ron Powell wrote: Nick, I'm really unsure what you mean by "up to the edge". I hope you don't mean having the rotating of the buffer  turning counter clockwise against your work.
And I reckon a 600 rpm buffer is just fine if you have 2" diameter wheels or you don't mind buffing for hours.
When I use to work for a plating shop as a buffer, our wheels where about 12" in diameter and they ran at 3400-3600 rpms.

Ron, you're close on the wheel diameter I use but it only takes a few minutes for me finish both sides of a wing on a blade. I substitute pressure for speed and use a very soft wheel.
Ron Powell
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 Posted: Tue Oct 6th, 2009 05:22 am
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Adam Rohn wrote: so hold the material at a angle when buffing? What part of the wheel should I be using?Adam, Here's what I do and I've never had a problem. I take the blade and hold it vertical front side up and buff one side of a blade first (now I have two identical wheels on my buffer), and I do that to all the blades. So your only buffing half a blade. Then I buff the opposite sides on the left buffing wheel making sure to overlap and use uniform  pressure through out. I do this to both sides front and rear of blades. This way you buffer wont grab the edge of the blade and fling it. Of course there's getting in and around the wings of the hub, and you can do this if your real careful. I cheat and use about a 3" wheel on a drill motor in a vise to do this. It's slower and takes a bit more but, I don't mangle my blades.
Ralph Bliss
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 Posted: Tue Oct 6th, 2009 12:06 pm
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The key is to make sure the spinning wheel never gets close to the leading edge of the blade, the wheel should always be on the flat part or falling off the trailing edge. When you find a position that works well, repeat the same position for each blade.

I do buff the outside only of the cage, but you still must be very carefull!!!
Steve Sherwood
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 Posted: Tue Oct 6th, 2009 12:42 pm
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Read this. http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htm
Adam Rohn
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 Posted: Wed Oct 7th, 2009 05:48 pm
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Ron,

I have a six wing brass blade, is there any special precaution I should take when buffing that with the buffer? I noticed the wing span is much closer (obviously due to the number of wings)
Ron Powell
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 Posted: Wed Oct 7th, 2009 06:08 pm
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Adam, On a six wing I think I'd try buffing them from tip to hub instead of the before mentioned way. And just keep a close eye on what your doing making sure that no other blades come in contact with anything. Wear good leather or heavy cloth gloves and keep a good grip on it also. We use to wear cotton gloves with heavy leather gloves over them and still burn through at least two pairs a night. Of course we where working with much bigger buffers and heavier material and compounds.
The main thing is to keep your attention on what your doing and don't try taking short cuts to get done. We don't need anybody getting hurt and or destroying their fan.

Of course to minimize your buffing chore and make it a lot safer some guys remove the blades from the hub then buff them and then re-rivet them back on. Of course no one expects you to do this till you've had a bit more experience and it's a bit costly to have someone do it for you but, much easier. Too bad I can't afford to have someone do it for me.
Adam Rohn
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 Posted: Wed Oct 7th, 2009 08:29 pm
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I've thought about taking the wings off the hub also, Ron..But your right, I think that would be out of my league at this point, my luck I'd ruin the blade. I'm sure its not that hard to do but I've never used a rivet gun.
Steve Sherwood
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 Posted: Wed Oct 7th, 2009 08:43 pm
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Take it from me, it is not easy to put the wings back on. A rivet gun will not work very well. Everything has to be re-drilled to 1/8 inch and if the holes are not lined up right this creates problems you do not want to deal with.  If you are interested in taking them off there will be several members who can explain the process, who will be at the fan workshop in November.

Steve Sherwood

Last edited on Wed Oct 7th, 2009 08:44 pm by Steve Sherwood
Ralph Bliss
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 Posted: Wed Oct 7th, 2009 11:28 pm
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Proof that cage buffing can go VERY wrong in an instant! Alway focus and be carefull!!

Last edited on Wed Oct 7th, 2009 11:29 pm by Ralph Bliss
Rick Hoener
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 Posted: Wed Oct 7th, 2009 11:36 pm
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Thank you Ralph for posting that picture. That proves that cage buffing can be a dangerous game. One wrong move and its all over.   Rick.
Adam Rohn
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 Posted: Wed Oct 7th, 2009 11:49 pm
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I think you made my decison for me, Ralph..I'm not buffing the cage at all
Dave Dalsin
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 Posted: Mon Oct 12th, 2009 12:38 am
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Here is my solution to the trashed cage that is posted above.

Attached Image (viewed 69 times):

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Dave Dalsin
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 Posted: Mon Oct 12th, 2009 12:51 am
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With this stop setup I have not had any problem with the wheel grabbing the cage.
Even with a soft wheel like shown it works great, and it will polish all the way around the  wire if I use about three different approach directions or angles. About a half an hour and it's good to go.
I've been using this setup since I trashed the one in the picture above, about ten cages without any problem. Dave

Attached Image (viewed 65 times):

L1010247.JPG
Russ Huber
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 Posted: Mon Oct 12th, 2009 01:06 am
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Dave Dalsin wrote:
With this stop setup I have not had any problem with the wheel grabbing the cage.
Even with a soft wheel like shown it works great, and it will polish all the way around the  wire if I use about three different approach directions or angles. About a half an hour and it's good to go.
I've been using this setup since I trashed the one in the picture above, about ten cages without any problem. Dave


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKgPY1adc0A :D
Adam Rohn
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 Posted: Mon Oct 12th, 2009 01:18 am
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Thanks Dave, Whats your setup? I can't really tell what you've got.

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