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Adam Rohn
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| Joined: | Fri Oct 2nd, 2009 |
| Location: | Duluth |
| Posts: | 590 |
| Favorite Fan: | GE AOU |
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Posted: Thu Oct 22nd, 2009 08:47 pm |
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| I'm about ready to pull the motor out of my westinghouse to repair the headwire and I don't know how to disconnect the winding leads from the brass hub in the motor housing for the start switch. Can anyone tell me please? There's two screws but I'm not sure if that would release them. Attached Image (viewed 88 times):
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Peter Garcia
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| Joined: | Sat Jun 14th, 2008 |
| Location: | Los Angeles |
| Posts: | 506 |
| Favorite Fan: | General Electric Pancake fan |
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Posted: Thu Oct 22nd, 2009 09:14 pm |
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yes those screws would release that part but keep in mind it is still attached to the stator and you have to mark the wire's if you do decide to cut them. I know I had to cut them if i wanted to remove the stator out, even though I never got the stator out it was a pain trying to get that back in, if your looking for a serious challenge I would come up with a different way of rewiring that fan. if your going to use the PVC pipe method and slamming it out I would suggest you cut that out so you don't destroy it during that process. also if its a stamped steel Westinghouse, good luck...I hear there difficult to have the stators removed and sometimes the housing can either warp or crack and there go's all your hard work. so more pictures would help everyone to give us an idea of what type of fan your working on, and maybe others will know a better method then what I have explained here. good luck
Peter
Last edited on Thu Oct 22nd, 2009 09:17 pm by Peter Garcia
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Adam Rohn
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| Joined: | Fri Oct 2nd, 2009 |
| Location: | Duluth |
| Posts: | 590 |
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Posted: Thu Oct 22nd, 2009 09:28 pm |
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| Unfortantly the only way to rewire it now is to remove the stator and besides I want to put some varnish on the windings. I heard its not easy because of the chance of the housing cracking or warping but Ron Powell said if I go easy and don't use much force I should be fine.
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Erich Martin
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| Joined: | Mon Aug 18th, 2008 |
| Location: | Westside, California USA |
| Posts: | 1052 |
| Favorite Fan: | Patina, preferred finish of the lazy!. |
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Posted: Fri Oct 23rd, 2009 01:00 am |
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| undo the 2 screws, heat up the housing a little bit (moms hair dryer )and tap the studs evenly, it will pop out with little fuss(4 min tops), almost no press fit . Be sure to re-varnish your coil, they are usually a loose bunch of wires all wound together with no varnish, at least all my tanks have been.
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Adam Rohn
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| Joined: | Fri Oct 2nd, 2009 |
| Location: | Duluth |
| Posts: | 590 |
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Posted: Fri Oct 23rd, 2009 01:03 am |
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| Thanks Erich! I plan on putting varnish on the windings I bought some the other day and it should be here tommorrow and actually the windings so far don't look that loose (only one wire)
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Adam Rohn
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| Joined: | Fri Oct 2nd, 2009 |
| Location: | Duluth |
| Posts: | 590 |
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Posted: Fri Oct 23rd, 2009 01:08 am |
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| Have any suggestions on how to avoid accidently hitting the windings when I drill 2 holes to tap out the stator?
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Erich Martin
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| Joined: | Mon Aug 18th, 2008 |
| Location: | Westside, California USA |
| Posts: | 1052 |
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Posted: Fri Oct 23rd, 2009 01:09 am |
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all my westinghouse tanks had loose coils, but a 12" western electric I bought looks exactly like yours (coil wise), it is still in line for restoration. Is your coil held in be studs with cap nuts?, all mine have been, I saw nothing in the pic. Yours does look like a sheet metal housing, god help you if it is!! Last edited on Fri Oct 23rd, 2009 01:13 am by Erich Martin
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Adam Rohn
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| Joined: | Fri Oct 2nd, 2009 |
| Location: | Duluth |
| Posts: | 590 |
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Posted: Fri Oct 23rd, 2009 01:42 am |
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| The studs are completely removeable, thats why you don't see any and 4 little square nuts hold them in then brass acorn nuts hold on the struts for the cage. And yes, its stamped steel. I'm hoping I don't have a problem with it if I go slow and carefully, the stator is partly out already (I don't know if thats suppose to be like that or not but it didn't seem to hurt anything when I was trying to get it running before the headwire was shot.
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