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Will Guidry
AFCA Member
| Joined: | Mon Nov 14th, 2005 |
| Location: | New Iberia, Louisiana USA |
| Posts: | 917 |
| Favorite Fan: | 8-10" Cast Iron Oldies |
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Posted: Tue Jun 30th, 2009 04:36 pm |
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| For as long as I've been collecting & repairing fans, I should know better....don't mess with stamped steel! But alas, I've taken on one more G.E. stamped steel motor and as per usual, upon re-assembly I get rotor lock (from that wonderful "self aligning" bearing in the front motor housing). I've loosened, tourqued, loosened/tourqued sequentially, theatened to throw it in the bayou, spoke poorly of it's mother, etc and I get that great ol' Good Enough hum. Anybody got a secret? Really need some magic here, folks...I have a fantastic condition deco-based Vortalex in the shop with the same problem...makes me crazy! Thanks for any hints, ya'll. Last edited on Tue Jun 30th, 2009 04:38 pm by Will Guidry
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Mike Collins
AFCA Member
| Joined: | Sat Nov 26th, 2005 |
| Location: | Tampa,FL |
| Posts: | 126 |
| Favorite Fan: | Any Vane Oscillator |
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Posted: Tue Jun 30th, 2009 05:34 pm |
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Will, this probably doesn't apply to your situation, but every stamped steel housing I've ever done that has given me problems with rotor bind has been because I didn't get all the primer/paint out of the lip where the housing halves fit together.
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Dave Rouse
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| Joined: | Mon Nov 14th, 2005 |
| Location: | Germantown, MD |
| Posts: | 301 |
| Favorite Fan: | C&C lamp resistance fan |
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Posted: Tue Jun 30th, 2009 05:38 pm |
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Will, you've probably already checked this, but in case you haven't:
I had a GE quiet blade pedistal that would lock up, and it turned out to be gunk in the neck bearing. It would run fine when the oscillator was disconnected, but would stall about 1/3 of the way through an oscillation when reconnected. Oscillator gears and arm were fine, but there was crud in the bearing where the motor was mounted to the base. I cleaned that out and relubed, and it ran fine afterward.
Another thing could be if the self aligning bearing is not fully installed, (the threaded ring not screwed down far enough), or perhaps the opposite, it's screwed down too tight?
I'm sure you've checked the endplay right?
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John Fengel
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| Joined: | Mon Nov 14th, 2005 |
| Location: | Temple Texas |
| Posts: | 981 |
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Posted: Tue Jun 30th, 2009 06:38 pm |
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Will, I might add I've ran into this and occasionally have found I have too many fiber washers causing "rotor lock" when the case is closed and screws installed.
Just a thought.
John
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Paul Foster
AFCA Member
| Joined: | Sat Nov 19th, 2005 |
| Location: | Conyers, Georgia USA |
| Posts: | 463 |
| Favorite Fan: | 24" GE Vorty Pedestal |
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Posted: Tue Jun 30th, 2009 11:14 pm |
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Will,
I have a 12" GE quiet blade pedestal and think the motors are very similar in design. After removing the screws, I had to use a few blows from a rubber hammer to remove the front cover. My front cover has a turned stepped shoulder that seats in the back housing (or vise versa). It is a very tight tolerance fit that snaps in and out. After painting, I had to chase both mating surfaces to remove the paint buildup and use another blow from the rubber hammer to snap the front cover back in place. Initially I tried to use the screws to pull front cover back into position, but found about a 45-50 degree section that had not quite seated (I could see this as I looked around the mating circumference) and the misalignment was evident as I turned the rotor.
Hope this helps.
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Will Guidry
AFCA Member
| Joined: | Mon Nov 14th, 2005 |
| Location: | New Iberia, Louisiana USA |
| Posts: | 917 |
| Favorite Fan: | 8-10" Cast Iron Oldies |
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Posted: Tue Jun 30th, 2009 11:38 pm |
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| Thanks everybody....ya'll may have saved an old fan's life! I'll get a 'weekend report' back to you when I try again. All good advice...things I haven't thought of!
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Russ Huber
AFCA Member
| Joined: | Mon Nov 14th, 2005 |
| Location: | Southwest, Wisconsin USA |
| Posts: | 4802 |
| Favorite Fan: | Any with all its parts. |
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Posted: Wed Jul 1st, 2009 02:13 am |
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Will Guidry wrote: Thanks everybody....ya'll may have saved an old fan's life! I'll get a 'weekend report' back to you when I try again. All good advice...things I haven't thought of!
Hey Mr. President....there is a weapon which will be faithful to you under extreme conditions such as these. No...it does not involve plastic exposives.  Swearing out of frustration can lead you down the path to....that place that stays toasty for a long time. 
So to spare your soul dude...don't be afraid to whap around on that motor from housing to rotor shaft to align that shaft.........with a rubber hammer.  
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Tom Newcity
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| Joined: | Sun Nov 27th, 2005 |
| Location: | Fort Smith |
| Posts: | 663 |
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Posted: Wed Jul 1st, 2009 02:48 am |
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Russ Huber wrote: Will Guidry wrote: Thanks everybody....ya'll may have saved an old fan's life! I'll get a 'weekend report' back to you when I try again. All good advice...things I haven't thought of!
So to spare your soul dude...don't be afraid to whap around on that motor from housing to rotor shaft to align that shaft.........with a rubber hammer.
I 2nd that notion. Whap all the way around the clock on that exposed shaft. That should be SOP on those self aligning bearings. That little GE in my avatar got whapped before the blade went on.
Last edited on Wed Jul 1st, 2009 02:51 am by Tom Newcity
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Russ Huber
AFCA Member
| Joined: | Mon Nov 14th, 2005 |
| Location: | Southwest, Wisconsin USA |
| Posts: | 4802 |
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Posted: Wed Jul 1st, 2009 04:10 am |
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Tom Newcity wrote: Russ Huber wrote: Will Guidry wrote: Thanks everybody....ya'll may have saved an old fan's life! I'll get a 'weekend report' back to you when I try again. All good advice...things I haven't thought of!
So to spare your soul dude...don't be afraid to whap around on that motor from housing to rotor shaft to align that shaft.........with a rubber hammer.
I 2nd that notion. Whap all the way around the clock on that exposed shaft. That should be SOP on those self aligning bearings. That little GE in my avatar got whapped before the blade went on.
Ya...it's sorta like that Zenith quality slogan......."The quality doesn't spin round....until the rubber hammer whaps on."  I hope this advice proves to be.....G.ood E. nough? 
Last edited on Wed Jul 1st, 2009 04:13 am by Russ Huber
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Paul Foster
AFCA Member
| Joined: | Sat Nov 19th, 2005 |
| Location: | Conyers, Georgia USA |
| Posts: | 463 |
| Favorite Fan: | 24" GE Vorty Pedestal |
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Posted: Wed Jul 1st, 2009 08:43 pm |
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Russ Huber wrote:
So to spare your soul dude...don't be afraid to whap around on that motor from housing to rotor shaft to align that shaft.........with a rubber hammer.
When all else fails, pull out 'ole trusty' and give'r a good whack or two.Attached Image (viewed 113 times):
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Will Guidry
AFCA Member
| Joined: | Mon Nov 14th, 2005 |
| Location: | New Iberia, Louisiana USA |
| Posts: | 917 |
| Favorite Fan: | 8-10" Cast Iron Oldies |
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Posted: Thu Jul 2nd, 2009 01:40 pm |
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| UPDATE: Last night I went to battle with this green monster...I whapped, tapped, tourqued, re-arranged shaft washers, removed shaft washers and only got a rotor-lock growl/hum....until I lifted the shaft while it was growling and the rotor-lock gave up and the motor ran fine. Worn bearing, which is not uncommon with these large (16" BB) G.E.s. What confounds me is that although gunky, funky and ugly before I broke it down and cleaned/painted it, the sucker ran well! I guess the dirty bearing and rotor shaft had a symbiotic deal to keep just a gentle lift on the shaft to keep away the rotor lock? Instead of trying to figger it out, I'm gonna' replace the front motor cap with a junker with a good bearing this weekend and write this one off as a mystery!
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Richard Larson
AFCA Member
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Posted: Thu Jul 2nd, 2009 02:28 pm |
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| Since it's a floating bearing cant you just loosen the bearing holder and rotate the bearing 180 to get it on a new surface?
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Will Guidry
AFCA Member
| Joined: | Mon Nov 14th, 2005 |
| Location: | New Iberia, Louisiana USA |
| Posts: | 917 |
| Favorite Fan: | 8-10" Cast Iron Oldies |
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Posted: Thu Jul 2nd, 2009 02:38 pm |
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| Indeed I could, Rich, but then I would have to drill a new hole for the oiler wick assembly.
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