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George Garlock
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| Joined: | Mon May 25th, 2009 |
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| Posts: | 4 |
| Favorite Fan: | Sears Homart |
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Posted: Mon May 25th, 2009 10:17 pm |
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| Hello Everyone! I am new to this forum. I need a motor for an antique Sears Homart fan. It is a belt driven fan probably from the 1950's or perhaps the 1940's. The motor specs are as follows; Sears Craftsman, Model 115. 7033, 1/6 HP, 115 Volts, 1150/1750 RPM, 2.0/3.7 Amps, Type SJS, Resilient Mount, and I think the frame size is Y48 or 48Y. There is also E3 49 stamped into the nameplate. I do want to keep the 2 speed feature as it works well for different temperatures. Unfortunately, the motor I have just fried its' start windings. I would also consider having this one rewound if economically feasible. Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. George Garlock
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Ron Draper
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Posted: Sat May 30th, 2009 07:00 am |
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These are tuff little motors. The start windings are cotton covered and can be quite black and not be shorted. Have you "ohmed" them and checked for shorts to frame and to the low speed winding? If they are not shorted but black (not charred - there is a difference) then recoat with a good motor varnish (not the spray junk). Fix the problem that caused them to get hot and enjoy your fan.
The cheapest way to get your fan going again is to locate an used replacement motor and and use your old motor for parts.
Best way out is a new two or three speed motor (switch and wire changes for three speeds but well worth the effort especially if you up the HP to 1/4 and increase the motor pulley size). 
The bushing in the pulley end of your motor will likely require replacement. Also the fan shaft and bushings will likely be worn as well.
I can do a partial rewind (start) or a complete rewind (all three windings).
PM me if interested in shocking prices
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Pat Allbritton
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| Joined: | Tue Jun 16th, 2009 |
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| Posts: | 13 |
| Favorite Fan: | sears homart window fan- powerful fan |
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Posted: Wed Jun 17th, 2009 01:48 am |
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George,
I am looking for a motor for the same fan.(any luck yet) .It's a vintage Sears Homart..these old fans probably used pretty close to the same motor, if not the same. Anyway, my husband replaced the original motor some years ago with a 1/3 hp motor and when I replaced the belt, I put on the wrong fan belt and burned the motor out..anyway..if you have any leads or information it would be greatly appreciated. Trying to get the motor going and a new belt installed. Then I'll tackle the shaft to oil, clean or whatever it needs, etc, I guess...don't know much about this, but am learning...Good luck
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George Garlock
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| Joined: | Mon May 25th, 2009 |
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Posted: Wed Jun 17th, 2009 03:50 am |
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| I have had no luck yet in getting an exact replacement but I did get a two speed motor inexpensively on Ebay but have not yet connected it. I too am the cause of the burn out as I replaced the belt and applied the old automotive rule of thumb of one inch of deflection being enough. Unfortunately I didn't shut it off fast enough. Live and learn a lesson for the umpteenth time. Good luck on your search AND I AM STILL LOOKING FOR ONE MYSELF. George Garlock
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Pat Allbritton
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| Posts: | 13 |
| Favorite Fan: | sears homart window fan- powerful fan |
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Posted: Wed Jul 1st, 2009 05:10 am |
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George,
I'm curious to know why you're still looking if you got one on ebay (a 2 speed one)..it this one not good for your purposes? Also would like to have someone else's opinion as to how to handle this situation: My husband replace the original motor years ago with another one and the frame wouldn't accommodate the size of the motor (he couldn't get the motor inside, so he cut his way in leaving a big ugly hole in the panel)so he look his snips and just cut an arc so that it would fit (bless his heart)..anyway, if I can find a motor I will try to restore the fan..that is paint, etc...any thoughts on how I can replace that panel so it's not so ugly..?? Also, what will you do with your fan???
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George Garlock
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| Favorite Fan: | Sears Homart |
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Posted: Thu Jul 2nd, 2009 03:47 am |
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| I am still looking for an original motor because the slow speed is just way too slow. The high speed is fine so we are able to use it. I fabricated an adaptor plate from some hot roll steel that I had in my garage and am using the original adjustment slots. I didn't have to modify the fan in any other way, the frame, screen and everything other than the motor remains factory stock. I do wonder what it might cost to get the original motor rewound by a reasonably priced source though. If anyone knows of such a source please let me know. Thank you, George Garlock
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John Fengel
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| Joined: | Mon Nov 14th, 2005 |
| Location: | Temple Texas |
| Posts: | 981 |
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Posted: Thu Jul 2nd, 2009 03:52 am |
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Eurton Electric
9920 Painter Avenue
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
(800) 423-4789 (562) 946-4477
The Moir Company
Rt. 117 Box 9000, Denmark, ME 04022-0999
(207) 452-2000
New England Armature
24 Pleasant Dr., Danville, N.H. 03819
(603) 382-5272
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George Garlock
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Posted: Thu Jul 2nd, 2009 03:55 am |
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Ron,
I am not sure how to pm (personal message) you but would like to know what you would charge to rewind this motor. I was told by a local industrial motor repair business that it would be between $350.00 and $450.00 plus tax for them to rewind the start windings (which they thought were the only bad ones). I cleaned it out and tried it again the other day and it instantly blows a 20 amp breaker. Please let me know what you can do. Thank you, George Garlock
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Nick Stapleton
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| Joined: | Sat Jul 4th, 2009 |
| Location: | Peoria, Illinois USA |
| Posts: | 7 |
| Favorite Fan: | All Vintage fans |
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Posted: Sat Jul 4th, 2009 09:57 pm |
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i also need a motor for that fan my starter clutch was stuck i fixed it but i broke a winding in the process it still runs but i have to spin it up and yes these are some awesome motors back when thing were built to last my grandma got mine from there old neighbor in the 50s when they moved into ther new home didnt have A/C untill 1986 lol (laugh out loud) u can try this link i found a motor at a reasonable price but i dont know if my motor mount will fit the new 1 because the old mount is set up for the fan http://kingsolar.com/catalog/mfg/dayton/3k613.html that is a 1/6 HP split phase fan motor commercial duty there is a residential duty as well but it is a 1/4 hp http://kingsolar.com/catalog/mfg/dayton/3k771.html the residential is cheaper but bigger and draws more power i dont hav A/C in my room so i use the ye olde homart u cant find a fan these days that move that much air.
Last edited on Sat Jul 4th, 2009 09:59 pm by Nick Stapleton
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Ron Draper
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Posted: Sun Jul 5th, 2009 04:49 am |
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George Garlock
I am not sure if you got my PM.
I looked at the links on the dayton motors and they may fit. You may have to shorten the shaft. These are not drop in motors (the motor are 48 frame and will not fit in a 56 frame cradle) - only a 56 frame motor will be close to a drop in. They have made the cradles like 56 cradles bolt up patterns so they will bolt in but expect belt lengths to vary.
Again, the cheapest way to get a motor to fit with the least amount of effort, is to take it a motor shop and tell then "I want a new motor just like this old one that sits in my cradle and the shaft length matches mine within a 1/4 inch.". Or go to ww graingers with your old motor and cradle in hand, tell them the same thing and once you get the motor post the stock number here for everyone read and thank you for a job well done. And do your self a favor, get one with ball bearings and a service factor (SF) as close to 1.35 as you can. Motor will run cooler, last longer and use less electricity and belt tension will not be a factor on the motor (it will still be a factor with the fan unless you put in a new shaft and needle bearings).
I wish I had one of my fans close by and then I could tell you exactly what the numbers are your looking for (height, width and lengths).
Ron
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Pat Allbritton
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| Favorite Fan: | sears homart window fan- powerful fan |
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Posted: Sun Jul 5th, 2009 09:38 pm |
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| I just bought a fan off ebay that looks exactly like the one I have that needs a motor. (I think, 'cause I don't have mine at hand right now) The seller had enlarged photos of the motor specifying that it's a fan motor, craftsman motor, 1/6 hp 115 volts 60 cyc Model 115 7402, 1150/1750 rpm 4.2 amps (I think it says if I'm reading it right, its a little vague) anyway type g14D?? gw14D ..(anyone know what these numbers mean on the g14 etc, is that the diameter? )...I hope this is the original motor, i guess, these motors have a great reputation...he says that he recently oiled the motor...does anyone know how you oil a motor?? Anyway, I paid a little over $200 for the fan.not to mention the 30 or so for shipping ....it was recently painted, looks great, maybe not the color I would have chosen (light blue??)at..even having a contrasting front grate..he said the belt is heavy duty and new..and that the fan shaft has been oiled at the ports (says they can be pushed in (the ports)...my question is how can I trust someone on this...for the belt adjustment (don't want to burn out another motor, for sure don't want to burn out an original motor because I know that craftsman motor made in 40s or 50s is probably better than anything we can get today for this purpose)..and this is very hard to come by...anyone know how you can tell if the motor is worn and what exactly "wears" a motor...at what point do they quit? how do you keep them going and will they last indefinitely??(sorry I asked that, but I had to)..I probably will still try to get a motor for the fan I have...and probably will try to restore it...any comments or suggestions??
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Ron Draper
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Posted: Mon Jul 6th, 2009 05:13 am |
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The places to oil the motor are on each end of the motor. There are two round circles. The innermost circle can be pressed down with a metal oil spout to oil the bushing.
The belt only needs to tight enough to prevent the belt from slipping under load. Too tight of belt causes the bushing to wear more rapidly by preventing the oil from getting between the two metal surfaces. All bushings wear out at some point but then oiled properly they last a long time. When the shaft "floats" on an oil film there is little metal shaft to metal bushing contact or wear. If the motor is not oiled, then the wear occurs rapidly as it is metal to metal.
On any bushing type motor that is belted, the greatest wear is the side of the bushing from the center of the motor shaft to the center of the shaft of the driven shaft. On these types of fans the belt is at a 90 degree relative to the base of the fan. To check for wear, move the shaft to the left and right - not up and down. If there is any movement left and right - the bushing is worn.
To make any motor last forever, you need to keep it clean and oiled and to never turn it on. Well, if you use it, it will wear out at some point either electrically or mechanically - that is the nature of the beast.
When the bushing wears out, at some point the rotor will drag on the stator and make noise. More wear and the friction between the rotor and stator becomes so great the motor will turn very slowly or not at all and will "burn out" if left unattended.
Today's motors are better than the old ones if you buy quality, but cheap is never going to last much beyond the warranty period. They eliminated the oil holes and put just enough oil and wicking and bearing material to get out of their warranty and they have the numbers to prove the MTF (Mean Time to Failure).
Buy totally enclosed, sealed ball bearing motors that are greasable and have a service factor as close to 1.35 as you can or buy the next size larger HP motor - if 1/6 get a 1/5 or 1/4 - if 1/3 get a 1/2 - that is what a service factor is - 1.00 says I can do 100 percent of my HP rating without overheating - 1.35 says I can do up to 35% more load without over heating.
Ron
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Nick Stapleton
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Posted: Sat Jul 18th, 2009 12:22 am |
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i found an old ge motor that fit its like 30 + yrs but it runs and the shaft is 1/4 inch to long but i just modified the cover a little but it runs and im happy and cool so as long as the resilence mount is the same and the basic size is the same try not to go over 1/4 hp cause thats accually to muchwont spin faster but applies more torque we dont want to strip anything out now do we
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Ron Draper
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Posted: Sat Jul 18th, 2009 05:17 am |
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Here is a tip on how to cut off a motor shaft with good precision and with no sweat.
1) prepare the motor to run by attaching a cord to it.
2) cover the motor to prevent iron filings from being pulled into the motor either by magnetism or by the motor's cooling system but leaving the shaft safely exposed and where the covering will not get entangled with the shaft.
3) measure and mark the amount of the shaft to be removed and mark the shaft with a permanent marker.
4) reach over and get your trusty hacksaw with a new metal cutting blade in it.
5) measure the shaft the second time and verify that your mark is correct.
5) plug in the motor and make sure the shaft is not going to be touching the cover you put around the motor.
6) place the blade of the hacksaw on the mark (if may be bumpy especially if the shaft has one or two flats on it - less bumpy if there is a key-way slot in the shaft) so put on end of the hacksaw on the table or bench to help steady the hacksaw).
7) as the blade begins to cut into the shaft, slowly move the blade back and forth to prevent waring dull spots in to the blade.
8) keep a steady pressure on the hacksaw as you move it back and forth - let the turning shaft do the work for you.
9) unplug the motor before you completely saw through the shaft and make the final few strokes by hand to prevent the part of the shaft that is being removed from becoming a flying object and hurting or killing some one.
10) plug the motor back in and touch up the freshly cut shaft area with a file to have a very smooth almost factory cut shaft.
11) unplug the motor and wait for the shaft to stop spinning.
12) carefully remove the cover from the motor that is now loaded with iron shavings from the lath like cutting.
13) If you busted a sweat doing this - then you need to review the above steps to see where you messed up.
Ron
Remember - a good job does not require modifications to the existing structure - only to the part being replaced.
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