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Peter Garcia
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Posted: Mon Aug 10th, 2009 04:38 am |
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I got this fan over the weekend and when I got it it worked but when I wanted to work on the head wire they started to fall apart and then it didn't work anymore. I assume from my past experience if the head wires cross or touch the fan wont turn on. but I can see or understand why or how come the stator wont come out. it has that centrifugal switch like the early Emersons or even know if that's what there called. but I need your help on this and right now I just want the fan to work.
Last edited on Tue Oct 20th, 2009 10:47 pm by Peter Garcia
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Russ Huber
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Posted: Mon Aug 10th, 2009 06:24 am |
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Blade,cage,struts, and acorns all come off so you have the motor in hand. Remove the end bell and rotor comes out. You then remove the mounting screws for the brass deally bob that you see hooked up to the stator in the picture. I think I unsoldered the two wires that go to the stator from deally bob first?  Then I unscrewed it and removed it. I was then able to put a PVC pipe inside the stator and tap it out of the housing like you would a Emerson or G.E. stator.  Attached Image (viewed 315 times):
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Peter Garcia
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Posted: Mon Aug 10th, 2009 08:44 am |
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do you think my Westinghouse will work after I change the wires and remove the stator? I got so scared and upset with my self when it worked and then I changed the wire to the base and then it didn't turn on anymore.
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Russ Huber
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Posted: Mon Aug 10th, 2009 05:10 pm |
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Peter Garcia wrote: do you think my Westinghouse will work after I change the wires and remove the stator? I got so scared and upset with my self when it worked and then I changed the wire to the base and then it didn't turn on anymore.
If it worked before...I would think it would work again. Did you mark where your head wires where they connected to the switch and the motor before you removed them? 2 head wires connect to the switch...2 up in the motor.
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Peter Garcia
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Posted: Tue Aug 11th, 2009 02:00 am |
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| yeah I did that before I even considered changing the head wires. I was just putting a longer cord on it and then....nothing so that's when I saw the corroded oil soaked head wires and then wanted to change it. but I hope that does the trick
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Mike Crenshaw
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Posted: Tue Aug 11th, 2009 06:51 am |
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| Westy tank stators are a real pain in the butt to remove! Especially when all you thought of doing will not even budge the stator a quarter of a milimeter! One suggestion, told to me by another member, is to take a section of pipe which is the same size as the open rim of the motor housing, put the rim of the housing on the pipe and bang the other end of the pipe on a hard surface, such as a sidewalk until the stator falls out of the housing. You also should put something soft in the end of the pipe that is being banged so that when and if the stator falls out, it will not impact the pavement and damage the windings. To make removal easier, you can put the housing with the stator inside it into a freezer, wait about a day or so, get a hair dryer, take the motor out of the freezer, and blow on the housing with the hair dryer until you might hear a crackling sound. The stator should then slip out more easily. When putting the stator back in, I would very highly recommend using a dremel to sand the inside of the housing and the outer part of the stator so that the stator can be inserted back into the housing without any trouble. A word of extreme caution when using a pipe to remove the stator; under absolutely no circumstances do you ever pound the housing by it's inside on any pipe, whether it is steel, wood, or PVC, as this will split loose the flat housing shield that holds the bearing for that end of the motor and therefore will destroy the housing.
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Mike Crenshaw
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Posted: Tue Aug 11th, 2009 06:54 am |
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Peter Garcia wrote: so that's when I saw the corroded oil soaked head wires and then wanted to change it.
That is one reason I like to lubricate my fans with bicycle grease instead of oil.
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Nicholas Denney
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Posted: Tue Aug 11th, 2009 07:01 am |
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Mike Crenshaw wrote: A word of extreme caution when using a pipe to remove the stator; under absolutely no circumstances do you ever pound the housing by it's inside on any pipe, whether it is steel, wood, or PVC, as this will split loose the flat housing shield that holds the bearing for that end of the motor and therefore will destroy the housing.
As good at breaking things as I am, I have never managed that, the few times I have banged stators out of housings.
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Peter Garcia
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Posted: Tue Aug 11th, 2009 07:08 am |
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 Nichiolas I would have to agree with you on that one. I think if my mom ever saw one of my motors in the freezer I would be better off submerging it in water to see what happens, because my mom would have a fit and make a federal case out of it. I like the idea and I have no doubts that it wont work but for now I think I will stick to the pipe till the break happens. LOL
 
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Peter Garcia
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Posted: Wed Aug 12th, 2009 08:00 pm |
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Russ Huber wrote: Blade,cage,struts, and acorns all come off so you have the motor in hand. Remove the end bell and rotor comes out. You then remove the mounting screws for the brass deally bob that you see hooked up to the stator in the picture. I think I unsoldered the two wires that go to the stator from deally bob first? Then I unscrewed it and removed it. I was then able to put a PVC pipe inside the stator and tap it out of the housing like you would a Emerson or G.E. stator.
ok I got it to run but now I dont know what the diffrence is in the speed switch between the changes,can you show me the under part of your switch to see if I am doing something wrong here...
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Erich Martin
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| Joined: | Mon Aug 18th, 2008 |
| Location: | Westside, California USA |
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Posted: Fri Aug 14th, 2009 12:32 am |
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| I have done 4 headwires on westy type tank motors, what a pain!!. They have to be so "dang" short!!.
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Peter Garcia
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Posted: Fri Aug 14th, 2009 04:56 am |
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| hey your near me can we meet up sometime so you can help me with my speed switch? I dont understand why I cant get the 3 speeds back.
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Steve Stephens
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Posted: Fri Aug 14th, 2009 07:27 am |
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Peter Garcia wrote:
I dont understand why I cant get the 3 speeds back.
Most tanks are two speeds. If yours is a Style83239 (12") or Style 83241 (16") it's a 3 speed but those are uncommon models.Last edited on Fri Aug 14th, 2009 07:57 am by Steve Stephens
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Peter Garcia
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Posted: Fri Aug 14th, 2009 07:36 am |
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| you know what I am not sure I will take a look at it. I just assumed that its 3 speeds because of my other 16" westinghouse tanks...I could be wrong i will let you know.
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Steve Stephens
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Posted: Fri Aug 14th, 2009 07:56 am |
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| Peter, you'll probably see contact points in the tank switches that would seem to make 3 speeds but, usually, two contacts are bridged together so two switch positions give the same speed. I have a 16" tank with all contacts bridged making it a single speed tank for some unknown reason. A 3 speed 16" tank would be only a Style 83241
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Peter Garcia
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Posted: Fri Aug 14th, 2009 07:57 pm |
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oh and I forgot to mention that the fan wont turn off on its own??? I plug it in and its connected to the switch and its starts up on its own, then I slide the switch and I can hear a very faint difference in the next speed but no matter what it wont turn off. even if I have the switch out of the base and I lift the lever from the contacts while its plugged in and it still runs, whats up with that? I thought that if the lever had no contact with the little circle thingies it would turn off... any more thoughts??? I just about running out of mine...
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Nicholas Denney
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Posted: Fri Aug 14th, 2009 08:10 pm |
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Peter Garcia wrote: oh and I forgot to mention that the fan wont turn off on its own??? I plug it in and its connected to the switch and its starts up on its own, then I slide the switch and I can hear a very faint difference in the next speed but no matter what it wont turn off. even if I have the switch out of the base and I lift the lever from the contacts while its plugged in and it still runs, whats up with that? I thought that if the lever had no contact with the little circle thingies it would turn off... any more thoughts??? I just about running out of mine...
Is the switch even in circuit??? Could be imagining the speed changes?
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Peter Garcia
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Posted: Fri Aug 14th, 2009 08:46 pm |
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Peter Garcia wrote: oh and I forgot to mention that the fan wont turn off on its own??? I plug it in and its connected to the switch and its starts up on its own, then I slide the switch and I can hear a very faint difference in the next speed but no matter what it wont turn off. even if I have the switch out of the base and I lift the lever from the contacts while its plugged in and it still runs, whats up with that? I thought that if the lever had no contact with the little circle thingies it would turn off... any more thoughts??? I just about running out of mine...
Nicholas Denney wrote: Is the switch even in circuit??? Could be imagining the speed changes?
Peter Garcia wrote: well mabe if I put some pictures of what it looks like later today you can tell whats wrong with it or if what you mentioned could be the problem, cuz i dont know what that is. mabe my problem is the lack of knowledge on what the parts are actually called....
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Adam Rohn
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Posted: Tue Oct 20th, 2009 09:55 pm |
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| I feel your pain..I just had the same thing happen to me
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Adam Rohn
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Posted: Tue Oct 20th, 2009 10:26 pm |
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Nick,
After doing the freeze/thaw method would putting the butt of a hammer into the opening of the stator (where the rotor is) and banging it on the table work to get the stator to come out of a stamped steel housing?
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Peter Garcia
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Posted: Tue Oct 20th, 2009 10:48 pm |
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Nicholas Denney wrote: Peter Garcia wrote: oh and I forgot to mention that the fan wont turn off on its own??? I plug it in and its connected to the switch and its starts up on its own, then I slide the switch and I can hear a very faint difference in the next speed but no matter what it wont turn off. even if I have the switch out of the base and I lift the lever from the contacts while its plugged in and it still runs, whats up with that? I thought that if the lever had no contact with the little circle thingies it would turn off... any more thoughts??? I just about running out of mine...
Is the switch even in circuit??? Could be imagining the speed changes? you know what? I think I'm just going to have to post up a video so you can see what it sounds like.
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Mike Crenshaw
AFCA Member
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Posted: Sat Nov 7th, 2009 12:23 am |
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Adam Rohn wrote: Nick,
After doing the freeze/thaw method would putting the butt of a hammer into the opening of the stator (where the rotor is) and banging it on the table work to get the stator to come out of a stamped steel housing?
It might, but it will also crack the housing and knock the corresponding bearing out of line.
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