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Adam Rohn AFCA Member
| Joined: | Fri Oct 2nd, 2009 |
| Location: | Duluth |
| Posts: | 350 |
| Favorite Fan: | GE AOU |
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Posted: Wed Nov 4th, 2009 11:20 pm |
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| I tried soldering the headwires and they broke off while I was putting on liquid tape and I was wondering if its savable anymore and if so, what you suggest I use to get a strong connection. I don't want to have to get the motor rewound but I'm afraid I may be at that point Attached Image (viewed 181 times):

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Erich Martin AFCA Member

| Joined: | Mon Aug 18th, 2008 |
| Location: | Westside, California USA |
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Posted: Thu Nov 5th, 2009 01:07 am |
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| just re-solder the wires, slide some heat shrink tubing over the wires and put some liquid tape at the joint, then re-varnish those nekkid coils!
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Adam Rohn AFCA Member
| Joined: | Fri Oct 2nd, 2009 |
| Location: | Duluth |
| Posts: | 350 |
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Posted: Thu Nov 5th, 2009 01:41 am |
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| So its not a problem that a few copper wires broke off and I'm left with only 3 or were those mostly just leftover wires from the old headwire?
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Paul Foster AFCA Member

| Joined: | Sat Nov 19th, 2005 |
| Location: | Conyers, Georgia USA |
| Posts: | 479 |
| Favorite Fan: | 24" GE Vorty Pedestal |
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Posted: Thu Nov 5th, 2009 02:44 am |
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Adam, If you are trying to solder your new headwire onto the small gauge copper stator wire, you need to remove the clear lacquer from the stator wire pigtails to get a good solder bond. I typically scrape the solid copper stator wire pigtails with a knife blade to remove the lacquer insulation, then flux the wire to further clean and prepare for a good solder bond. Sometimes I scrape and flux the stranded copper headwire as well prior to soldering.
Have you had much practice in soldering? Your wires need to be heated enough by your soldering iron to flow the solder.
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Adam Rohn AFCA Member
| Joined: | Fri Oct 2nd, 2009 |
| Location: | Duluth |
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Posted: Thu Nov 5th, 2009 02:51 am |
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Thanks Paul, What I want to know though is before I had several strains of copper wire but they busted off and now I only have 3 short strains..My ohm readings seems fine but is only having 3 small strains on the one side gonna pose a problem when I go to apply power to the motor or was that just left over from the old wiring? I probably have 4 or 5 strains on the other side.
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Paul Foster AFCA Member

| Joined: | Sat Nov 19th, 2005 |
| Location: | Conyers, Georgia USA |
| Posts: | 479 |
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Posted: Thu Nov 5th, 2009 03:28 am |
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Adam, From your description, it sounds like you have a short piece of the old headwire remaining and some of your wire strands are missing. Can you see where the old headwire remnants are soldered onto your solid stator wire?
If you can expose the original solder joint between the stator wire and old headwire (3 to 5 strands remaining), you have two options. Option 1 is to snip the old headwire remnants from the stator wire and solder this to your new headwire--this assumes you have sufficient length to work with. Note my earlier posting about scraping the lacquer insulation and cleaning your stator wire leads. Option 2 is to solder your new headwire onto your remaining strands of the old headwire by placing the new headwire strands parallel to your remaining wire strands (overlapped to the stator wire end) and soldering together. With so few strands remaining of the old headwire, I would not try to place and solder the wires end to end.
Last edited on Thu Nov 5th, 2009 03:29 am by Paul Foster
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Adam Rohn AFCA Member
| Joined: | Fri Oct 2nd, 2009 |
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Posted: Thu Nov 5th, 2009 03:45 am |
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| I have 3 strains remaining on the stator and unfortantely I think I only see 1 strain on the new headwire that had broken off. Is that enough? With the 3 strains attached to the stator I'm still getting a good ohm reading, I just want to know if it'll short out as soon as I go test the motor because the strains that were there previously are missing leaving me with only 3 attached to the stator
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